Notes from Europe, August 2012

In August 2012 Mike and I once again travelled half way around the world to spend four weeks in Europe.  Before we left we planned out the cities we were to visit: Tokyo, Dresden, Vienna, Budapest, Salzburg, Venice, Florence and Rome.

These notes are mostly about food, but I do also include other anecdotes and random things I remembered.   Some of it was written during the trip but much added at later stages.

Saturday 4th

Wellington to Auckland

Flights to Tokyo always leave early in the morning so we had to fly to Auckland and stay the night there.  We stayed at the hotel across the road from the international terminal.  From memory it was $168 for the night, but worth it for a comfy bed and no hassle about getting to the airport in the morning.

Sunday 5th

Auckland to Tokyo

This was an Air New Zealand flight.  It was an old plane and our seats were on an exit aisle, which has its upsides and downsides.  It means there was no one in front of us and we could see when the toilets were free, but the TV screen and tray table were in the arm of the chair so was a little annoying any time you wanted to get up.  We also didn't have anyone else next to us, which was nice.  The seats were much more comfortable that on the Lufthansa flight from Tokyo to Dresden.  The meals on this flight were better too.  The first meal was teriyaki salmon with rice, carrots and asparagus - which was really tasty.  The second meal was a beef stew with potatoes and veges – this was also really nice.  The flight attendants came by more often to offer you drinks and when I asked for a coke or lemonade they would give me a whole can, rather than just a small cup of it like on Lufthansa. 

We arrived in Tokyo at about 5pm – it was hot and we were tired.  It took a while to get through customs, where we stood sweating in line with the air-conditioning vents dripping on us, and then the bus to our hotel took nearly two hours.  When we got to our hotel they checked us in to a smoking room - which smelt bad so we asked to change.  We had to wait while they found us another room.  This new room wasn't any bigger but at least it didn't smell.  The room was a wide as the length of the bed and there wasn't really anywhere to put our stuff.  The bathroom was tiny and the ceiling was low – even my short-arse could reach it.  The bed was hard and the pillows were weird – they were filled with something that was like cut up drinking straws.  There was one regular pillow and we had to ask for another one of these.   The toilet in the room was a complicated contraption made by a company called Toto (I wonder if they felt the rain down in Africa?).  I was always careful not knock any buttons or levers to avoid a surprise.  Bidets have always slightly worried me.  I’m sure if I’d grown up in Europe I’d be fine with them.

Monday 6th

Tokyo (Shinjuku)

We had breakfast at the hotel, which had a mix of Japanese and western foods.  It was quite expensive, but good to see the different types of food on offer.  I had slightly weird mix of things like bacon and eggs as well as some fish, rice and other unidentified salty foods.

The first morning in Tokyo we went to head out only to find it was pouring down with rain.  We went back to our room to get our jackets, then headed out again.  After about two minutes in the rain we were both soaked through – my jacket is really only shower-proof.  So we headed back in and bought a couple of cheap umbrellas from the Family Mart.  And we headed out again... then Mike decided that we should take our jackets back to our room as they were too wet.  So after dropping them back in our room, we headed out again... forth time lucky.

Individually wrapped bananas at the Family Mart

We found our way to the train station and took a train to Harajuku for a look around.  I bought some souvenirs – magnets and cards etc – before heading to Shibuya. 

Shibuya is a densely populated area with a busy train station and shopping area.  It’s also where you find one of the busiest pedestrian crossings in the world.

Shibuya crossing

For dinner we found a little sushi place called Uogashi Nihon Ichi located back in Shinjuku.  We were seated at the bar where a man prepared the fresh sushi dishes.  It was fantastic to watch him skilfully prepare a variety of seafood.  We tried a variety of things on the menu and attempted to be a little adventurous, but I suspect the English menu we received had quite different things on it to the Japanese menu everyone else had.

Sushi legend

Tuesday 7th

Tokyo

We headed back to Harajuku but this time visited the Meiji Shrine complex, which is an amazing large park surrounding the Shrine.  It was nice to see a different side of Tokyo, a side that isn’t all high-rises and shopping malls.

Meiji Shrine

For lunch we stopped at Doutor Coffee near our hotel.  A coffee shop franchise that also sells rolls and sandwiches.  I can’t remember what we had, which leads me to believe it was nothing special.  That afternoon we spent some time resting at the hotel before venturing out again.  We went for a walk around the streets where our hotel was and, being the naturally nosey person I am, we went into a couple of the buildings.  We found the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building has an observatory on the 45th floor – 202 metres up.  The weather wasn’t the best but there were still fantastic 360 degree views across Tokyo.  There was also a cafe and gift shops located on this floor.

View from the Metropolitan Government Building observatory

While out we also saw the man with the cats.  I wish I knew more about this.  I’d like to believe the cats were happy and well fed but I’m not sure that’s the case.

Street cats

We went into another building as it had a number of restaurants on the ground floor.  I’ve searched Google maps and Google but I just can’t find what the building was but it had quite a distinctive interior.  We ended up at a Thai restaurant where I had an interesting soft shell crab dish.

Unidentified building interior

Wednesday 8th

Tokyo to Dresden (via Frankfurt)

We arrived in Dresden about 5pm and got a taxi to our hotel.  We would usually use public transport but a taxi just seemed easier – after a long day we were tired and it only cost about 20 Euro.  When we got to the hotel we showered and lay down on the bed to relax, then feel asleep and didn't wake up until about 11pm.  By that time it was too late to do anything else but go back to sleep.

I should mention here that the main purpose of our trip to Europe was to attend the wedding of Annushka and Julian in Dresden.

Thursday 9th

Dresden

We both woke up quite early and headed out for breakfast, which was at a restaurant by the Frauenkirche.  I had the American breakfast, which I don't think was that American.  It did however include fried bacon and eggs (both overcooked) and a pancake.

Frauenkirche

There was an afternoon tea scheduled as a preliminary get-together and celebration of Matt’s birthday (Annushka’s brother).  This was held at a local cafe where much cake had been ordered.  It was wonderful to meet all the family and friends of the bride and groom.

Friday 10th

Dresden

The wedding day.

Breakfast was at Aha cafe (which we discovered later was one of Annushka’s favourites.  I had a nice spread of rolls, cheese, meats and spreads. It also included a boiled egg, hot chocolate and orange juice.

Breakfast at Aha cafe

For lunch I think we just had the couple of small donuts and some orange juice we'd bought the day before.

We got a taxi to the wedding venue by the Elbe river.  It was a lovely peaceful setting amongst the trees.  Annushka looked beautiful and the ceremony was very heart-warming.

Us at the wedding

Between the wedding ceremony and reception a number of guests visited the 28 hectare gardens at Pillnitz Castle.  This includes the famous Camellia japonica which is over 230 years old and in wintertime is protected by a glass-house on rails.

Dinner was a wonderful vegetarian buffet.  I had carrot and ginger soup with bread, then spinach and tomato lasagne, potato and fennel gratin, a rice salad and spaghetti with rocket and parmesan.  It was all really tasty.  Dessert was panacota with a berry coulis.

Food at the wedding reception

Saturday 11th

Dresden

Lunch was at a brewery with a lot of the wedding guests.  I had a large sausage with sauerkraut and mashed potatoes.  I couldn't eat it all but it was very tasty.  Mike had a giant plate of pork.

Giant sausage

Giant plate of pork

After lunch Annushka had arranged for those who were interested to take part in a walking tour of Dresden, led by her friend Stefan.  After the tour (which was quite fantastic) a bunch of us had dinner at Aha cafe (again).

We had such a wonderful time in Dresden.  The weather was lovely, the food was great, the people were amazing and it was so great to see our wonderful friends Annushka and Julian and be able to share in their special day.

Sunday 12th

Dresden to Vienna

We got up at 9am to catch the 11am train to Vienna.  At the train station we had to validate our tickets - I had already found out from the Eurail website the time and platform of our train.  We also bought breakfast and some food and drink for the trip.  There was a dining carriage on the train, but I've found in the past that it's always good to take your own food, otherwise we have to take turns to visit the carriage so one person is always looking after our seats and luggage.

Breakfast was for me was a crispy chicken burger, fries and a coke from Burger King.  I think Burger King in NZ is better.  The chicken was one of those patties rather than the chicken breast we get at home.  Also, the crispy coating wasn't that crispy and the whole burger was smaller.  We also bought some pizza bread and something I can only describe as a glorified sausage roll from a place called Ditsch.  I've already eaten my pizza bread and am now watching the scenery in between writing this.

Glorified sausage roll

[Mike:] I am sitting in a hard first class seat on a train on its way to Prague. My tummy is full of pizza bread and I am tired from the previous days Dresden walking tour (narrated by our historian friend Stefan). We have a cabin to ourselves, air conditioned and spacious. Travelling on the European rail system first class is so much better than flying! One of our MP3 players has died, so I am using the laptop to transfer my music to the other. It seems to take far too long to transfer. I mentioned to Mel that we needed to buy a new one, however she seems happy with her old paltry 1GB MP3 player.

We travel along the Elbe river, which is beautiful and have seen some interesting things – like a single side supported suspension bridge. Mel and I have our feet up on the opposite seats and are napping. [/Mike]

Dinner was at a Hungarian restaurant.  I had paprika chicken with gnocchi, it was really tasty and the meal I remember most from Vienna.

Monday 13th

Vienna

We had breakfast at the hotel each day while in Vienna – I think it was included in the hotel cost.

Lunch was beautiful fresh spinach and ricotta tortellini in a creamy cheese sauce - it was really good.  The cafe was called Votiv.

Dinner was fish and chips at a restaurant in the main street.  It wasn't great.  The waiter was weird and I could have got some better fish from the supermarket freezer at home. The chips weren't that nice either.  We didn't leave a tip.

Tuesday 14th

Vienna

Breakfast at the hotel.

Lunch was Frankfurters, horseradish and mustard (which I thought this was going to be like a hot-dog) and chips.

We spent the day walking around the centre of Vienna, with that song in my head by Ultravox the whole time.  There was some wonderful architecture.

St. Charles's Church

Dinner was at the Italian restaurant at our hotel.  I had a shrimp and avocado salad and we shared a Margherita pizza.

Wednesday 15th

Vienna to Budapest

Breakfast at the hotel.

Lunch on the train from Vienna to Budapest.  As usual, I bought a few things from a bakery before getting on the train.

We had time in the afternoon for a walk around the city but ended up at a restaurant across from our hotel for dinner – I had duck with vegetable filled pancakes – it was a fantastic meal and we should have gone back here.

Girl and dog with a ball sculpture

Thursday 16th

Budapest

Breakfast at the hotel.

After dragging Mike up Gellért Hill on a hot day we stopped for lunch at a restaurant back down at the bottom.  I had a burger and fries which was tasty.  I also drank two small bottles of coke. 

At the top of Gellért Hill is a citadel where there were also markets.  This is where I bought a number of bits and pieces including a couple of pashminas that worked out to be about $7 each.

View from Gellert Hill

Dinner wasn’t that great – pasta with a little spicy sausage and onions - I was underwhelmed.  Mike sent his back as the pork was overcooked and cold.  He asked for a pasta dish instead but wasn't really impressed by that either.  They only charged us for my meal and our drinks which was good.  I should know by now not to eat at those tourist-trap places on the main streets.

Friday 17th

Budapest to Salzburg

After arriving and settling at our hotel in Salzburg we headed out for a walk and to find dinner.  We ended up at an Italian restaurant that was really good, I can’t remember what it was called but it was on Linzer Gasse.  I had spaghetti bolognaise and Mike had a most amazing pizza.  We decided then that we would go back the next night for dinner.

Saturday 18th

Salzburg

After a good sleep in we headed out and had brunch at cafe called Diva.  It was your typical European breakfast but with amazing fresh bread.

Brunch at Diva cafe

We spent the day seeing all the sights of Salzburg, including Hohensalzburg Castle which sits atop a small mountain and is one of the largest medieval castles in Europe.

As decided earlier, we went back to the Italian restaurant we’d been to the night before.  This time I had pizza and Mike had pasta.  It was again a most excellent meal.

Sunday 19th

Salzburg

We needed to do some more washing, so did a Google search for a laundromat.  I found there was one located near the train station so we packed up our washing and walked there.  However, it seems most of Austria is closed on Sunday's and so was the laundromat.  We had some breakfast/lunch at an unfriendly cafe - pizza bread and a banana milkshake (which wasn't that cold) - and Mike suggested I go shopping/sightseeing and he go back to the hotel for a rest day.  So I left him with the washing while I headed off towards town.  I went to the Mirabellgarten, a Sound of Music film location, and it was beautiful.  There was a nice view of the gardens looking towards the fortress.  I went past the markets we'd visited yesterday and bought the VW brass plaque I'd seen for dad and got it engraved with my parents initials and name – it cost 35 Euro. I also visited the Catacombs at St Peters (E1.50 to get in) and the Salzburg Cathedral which we hadn't gone into the day before because we thought it was closed.  I stopped for a strawberry gelato and a bottle of water.  I made friends with a couple of horses that like have their noses patted and were eager for my attention. 

Friendly horses

I headed back to the hotel about 5pm and had a shower and a nap.  My feet were pretty sore and it had been up to 34 degrees.

I really loved Salzburg and would visit again given the chance.

Monday 20th

Salzburg to Venice

We got up at 8.30am.  Mike had breakfast at the hotel as he really wanted a coffee.  I decided to wait until the train station.  We arrived early so I went to SPAR - the supermarket - and bought a couple of rolls, muffins and a coke - I was unable to find orange juice.

I ate a salmon, cream cheese and lettuce bagel for breakfast on the first train.  The journey ended up being a bit of a shambles as the connecting train to Venice was cancelled and we had to take a bus from Innsbruck to Brenner (?), then another train from there to Venice – but on this second train the first class and dining carriage were both closed.  Luckily I still had some food and drink left, others were not so fortunate.  On the plus side, the bus journey gave us a chance to see the massive roads built across this hilly country.

Large roadway between Salzburg and Venice

When we arrived in Venice we caught a water bus to San Marco (St Mark's) square and walked from there to our hotel, which was only a couple of blocks.  We showered and changed before heading out again.  We went to the restaurant pretty much across the square from our hotel.  It was of course Italian... all the restaurants were Italian except for a couple of kebab places and a Chinese restaurant.  Everyone served pizza and pasta and some places were better than others.  I had pizza, Mike had meatballs (which reminded me of rissoles) and ratatouille, although it was really too hot to eat.  We wandered around the tourist shops as most were still open even though it was late.

Tuesday 21st

Venice

Our hotel was in a 500 year old building that had been refurbished (minus a lift) in the centre of Venice and our room had a lovely little balcony with views over the roof tops.  Breakfast was served in a little room next to ours.

View from our balcony

We spent the day getting lost amongst the buildings – quite an easy thing to do in Venice – and shared a pizza for lunch.  Venice is just the most glorious place I’ve ever been.  I now understand why it’s the subject of so many paintings.

"My God, I would rather go to Europe than go to Heaven."

- William Merritt Chase, American artist, 1849 – 1916.

Looking towards San Giorgio Maggiore

I don’t recall where we went for dinner, possibly the same place we went the previous night.  I had tortellini with meat sauce.

Wednesday 22nd

Venice

Breakfast at the hotel.

Another day seeing the sights. Another pizza for lunch – we shared a pizza and salad this time.

In the afternoon we took a water bus to a different part of Venice and once again got lost amongst the buildings.  We had dinner at a modern looking place, but it was still good old Italian food.  I had orecchiette with Italian sausage and broccoli. 

Oval windows

Thursday 23rd

Venice to Florence

Breakfast at the hotel.

We took the train to Florence but I don’t remember much about this trip - probably because it wasn’t too long.

For dinner I think I had pizza at the restaurant just around the corner.

Friday 24th

Florence

Breakfast at the hotel.

We had lunch at the Uffizi gallery.  For me it was a roll with prosciutto and an orange juice.  Not very exciting and a bit over-priced.  The gallery itself was good – although too much to see in one visit.

For dinner we went to a restaurant around the corner that had been recommended to us.  I had spinach and ricotta tortellini, and chocolate and almond cake for dessert.   It was really good, so once again we decided to go back the next night.

I went for a walk by myself after dinner and bought a little watercolour from a man outside the Florence Cathedral (aka the Duomo).

Florence Cathedral

Saturday 25th

Florence

Breakfast at the hotel.

We strolled the city streets and shopped at the local markets.  While in Florence I bought a handbag for each of my two sisters.  (I went home with four handbags altogether – one I bought in Rome and another one that was either from Florence or Rome).

Porcellino by the markets

Pizza again for lunch... we really just lived in pizza and pasta – it was wonderful.

Dinner - Pasta (like spaghetti but thinner) with tomatoes and cheese, and grilled prawns.

Sunday 26th

Florence to Rome

Breakfast at the hotel.

For lunch we bought some rolls before we got on the train, but didn't end up eating them until we got to our accommodation in Rome.  I was underwhelmed by mine.

Dinner - Pasta with sausage and goat's cheese. I don’t remember where.

Monday 27th

Rome

Breakfast at the Bed and Breakfast.

Before we left New Zealand I had booked a tour of the Colosseum and Roman Forum.  It included a guided tour of underneath and up the top of the Colosseum that you can only visit on a tour.  It was a really hot day and the tour took about three hours so we were exhausted by the end, but it was well worth it.

Colosseum

Lunch – spaghetti with bacon and cheese in a tomato based sauce.

Dinner – Chicken stuffed with apples and pistachios with a curry sauce. It also came with some rice and I ordered a side salad.  I now have no recollection of this.  I must have been too tired.

Tuesday 28th

Rome

Breakfast at the Bed and Breakfast.

Lunch was pizza (Hawaiian for a change!) at a place that was a bit touristy.

We saw all the sights, including the Spanish steps, Trevi Fountain, Pantheon and Vatican City.

Pantheon

Trevi Fountain

Dinner was at a restaurant just around the corner from the Bed and Breakfast.  For starters, they had a vegetarian buffet with all sorts of yummy things.  Then I had a pasta classic – it was basically spaghetti with cheese and pepper, but very tasty.  Mike had a mixed platter of meats that were all really tender and tasted amazing.

We've also been eating gelato pretty much daily.

Wednesday 29th

Rome

Breakfast at the Bed and Breakfast.  The Bed and Breakfast we stayed at was owned by a very friendly guy called Gianluca.  The bed was hard and to begin with we weren’t too comfortable, but by the end we were sad to go.  Gianluca was very helpful and did his best to make us feel welcome and at home... and we got used to the bed.

Thursday 30th

Rome to Hong Kong (via Frankfurt)

The long trip home.  Four flights ahead of us, but our own bed to look forward to.

Friday 31st

Hong Kong to Auckland

We didn’t leave the airport in Hong Kong, but instead found a place where we could sleep, have a shower and something to eat.

Hong Kong Airport

Saturday 1st September

Auckland to Wellington = Home

I need a holiday to recover from my holiday.

We had a wonderful trip and visited some spectacular places.  Salzburg, Venice and Florence were my favourites.  Dresden was in a league of its own – mainly because of the people we met and spent time with.  We’ve also decided that we must visit Japan for a longer period of time and explore the country more fully.